Cambodian roads were instantly quieter than Vietnamese ones, and the motorbike is still the favored vehicle. The people looked different, with much darker skin and wider flatter noses. Thanks to the Khemer Rouge and they're genocide (more on that later) anybody that didn't look totally Khmer was wiped out. The countywide was beautiful and green and probably because there are less people, there was less litter. There is absolutely no regard for littering in Asia from what I can see. You will often see beautiful fields and countryside and lakes strewn with rubbish. Its sad to see, but especially because the country people don't seem to understand the effects this will have on the very environment they live in.
On the drive to Phnom Penh our bus boarded a ferry to cross the massive Mekong River. The ferry is only in operation in the last two decades and must have made such a huge difference to the peole living around the river. On the way over on the ferry, I heard a tapping at my window. I looked out to see a boy of about 7 who had climbed between the side of our bus and the side of the truck right beside us in order to reach my window. He was trying to open in, was filthy, in ragged clothes, and was pointing to his mouth in a gesture of wanting food. It was pretty heartbreaking and as it was my first real encounter with child begging in Asia, pretty shocking. I didn't know what to do for a moment, and then remembered the 'free snacks'the bus company had provided for us when we boarded our bus. I found the sugary doughnut and gave it to him. He looked surprised, but otherwise his expression didn't change. He took it eagerly and made his way down, and onto another window. I then noticed there were children at other windows. A guy opposite me had drawn his curtains and was holding his window shut to a small girl of about 5. Maybe he didn't have anything to give her... right?
Child begging seems to be pretty common here, some are down right scary, others just too sad. Some are trying to sell goods, with pushy mothers watching from a distance. Some try the 'milk scam', where they ask for milk, bring you to a nearby shop where they often have an arrangement, where the milk is often overpriced (I once heard someone being quoted $25 in such a situation) and apparently after the milk has been sold, the child can return the milk and get the money, with the shop taking a commision. I've met travellers who have tried to bring such children to different shops other than the ones the child suggests, and the child usually refuses. Its hard to distinguish in such situations, so unless I have something I can give on me already, I say no, which can be pretty hard.
As we came into Phnom Penh, I got chatting to two english guys, who informed me we were arriving just in time for the Kings funeral. This would continue for a week and for the entirity of my stay. It was both interesting and inconvient in equal measures. Many roads were closed to vehicles, and sometimes to pedestrians too. The irritating thing was, there would be pedestrians on either side of such road closures, and you could always get to your desired street by taking a longer route around, thus deeming the closure irrelivant. Sometimes, they would let you through a particular road closure, and 10 minutes later, at the same road closure, they wouldn't, and you'd have to walk a block or two around to get through. I completely failed to see the logic, or understand it. This would be a theme for a great many things in Cambodian society. It was something I would just have to come to accept. Things often didn't make sense, seemed badly organised, everything is late or not how it is promised or seemed. These are all things that I can easily forgive and get over though because every other aspect of Cambodia, and its people is fantastic. I was instantly overcome by how friendly and kind its people are. I've been to a few countries in my time, and I have to say, Khmers are one of the friendliest I've come across. Its an easy place to relax and feel at ease. Everyone seems to want to help you, or just say hello.
We got to the city late in the day, so after checking in to the most random Hostel of all time with the English guys, there wasn't much else to do. The hostel could have been amazing, with a swimming pool, and the biggest single bunk beds I've ever seen, but the staff were something else. It seems that there are often 4 or 5 people in business' in Cambodia to do the job of one person. We saw 4 people changing a bed. 1 actually changed the bed, while 3 watched. In this hostel, they also didnt seem to have a clue who was occupying any of the beds in the Dorm, and just kept bringing people in after the dorm was full. I also saw some shameless flirting between to staff members that had come in to fix a shower that wasn't working. They didn't seem to notice that there were two of us in the room (although they definitely knew we were) It was pretty awkward to say the least!
Phnom Penh, like the rest of Cambodia, is damn hot. Its "cool"dry season at the moment, but its 32 degrees, and humid. Hot dry season, is even hotter, and I can't even imagine what thats like. Despite the heat I spent alot of time walking around the city, mostly watching the goings on for the kings funeral, and getting a glimse at the wonderful buildings, such as the Palace and Temples. Because of the funeral, these sites were closed to the public, but it was still pretty interesting to see crowds of people dressed in white and black (the colours for mourning) praying in the streets, or queuing to pay their respects. The king actually died in October, but they were waiting until they had all the necessary preperations for his funeral ready before going ahead with it. A temporary monument was built beside the palace were they laid his body for the week of his funeral. There were 'parades'with eleborate golden floats to mourn his death. Flags were put up everywhere at half mast, as well as his photograph everywhere you looked. At night at 8pm there was a fantastic fire work display down by the river. Speakers were put up all over the city, and a sad, eerie chanting/praying was played over them throughout the day. Other than that, no music was allowed, or alcohol, although this rule didn't seem to apply to hostels.
I was curious about what happened to the king during the Khmer Rouge regime, and I have to say, his position on them seems a little suspect. He was both with, and against them at different times in his career/life. All the same, it seems like he was a well loved king, and it did seem kind of special to be there for part of his funeral at least.
You can read more on this curious king here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Norodom_Sihanouk
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