Motorbikes and mountains- a journey to Hue

I had met several people who told me the short (5-7 hours) from Hoi An to Hue was worth doing during the day and by motorbike or scooter, as it is one of the most scenic routes in Vietnam. Thanks to relatively new tunnels through the mountains the buses could get between the cities faster, but skipped the beautiful costal and mountainous views along the way. The motorbike option has increased in popularity since in was featured on 'Top Gear'. However, I was still not feeling brave enough to motorbike in Asia, having seen too many bike injures in backpackers, and the crazy driving everywhere I went. I decided to opt for the easy option and signed up for an 'Easyrider Tour'. This is basically traveling from A to B or anywhere else you like in Vietnam on the back of a motorbike with your biker tour guide doing the driving for you. With the Dutch and Austrian biking themselves to Hue the same day I was joined with two Aussie sisters that morning. As typical Irish luck would have it, after days of glorious sunshine, that morning the heavens had opened and heavy downpours and grey clouds greeted us. Our drivers had brought us rain gear, and told us that the rain would stop in an hour. I was skeptical but it turned out to be true. Although the clouds and mist would persist at least we wouldn't be soaked.
My backpack and bag were wrapped on plastic and strapped to the back of my bike. Dressed in full rain gear and helmet off we went. We'd stop frequently along the way, our first at Marble Mountain. We had an hour to climb the rough marble stone stairs along the mountainside and explore the Pagodas, finding enormous Buddist statues hidden in caves and tunnels. A beautiful place, seemingly unaffected by the War, unlike many other temples and Pagodas in Vietnam which were sometimes bombed to complete ruin by the American soldiers. They believed Viet Cong soldiers to be hiding in them. Whether this is an adequate reason to destroys beautiful places of worship which are thousands of years old, I am unconvinced.

After marble Mountain we drove by and stopped at China beach where we met local fishers and admired the strange creatures they'd caught. Because of the overcast misty weather the visibility was a bit poor, so we continued on to visit a Giant statue of Lady Budda, built in 1997 by the Thai and Vietnamese government. She looks out over the sea as a protection and to bring luck (and hopefully no tsunamis).
We then continued up the mountains, with beautiful views the whole way. We stopped at several points to take photos, and climb rocks. However, even when your in the middle of no where, on a mountain, Vietnamese woman will appear from thin air, trying to sell you shitty bracelets. The Vietnamese approach to trying to sell to tourists is without doubt the most irritating thing about traveling in Vietnam. They are pushy and persistent and sometimes will follow you even after you've said no. That coupled with the fact they are always quoting you a higher price than what locals will pay, for everything. The result being that you find yourself being ruder and harsher to streetsellers and taxis, which is a shame because aside from this Ive found them to be a very friendly nation.

After our mountain drive we stopped for lunch in a small cafe where we were given mountains of various plates of food for a total price of €1.50. Sometimes uncertain of what the meat was, it all being delicious, I thought it best not to ask. There is no real danger of getting dog, even though it is popular in the north to eat, it is expensive and considered a delicacy. For the record, I've heard it's nice, but I couldn't try it myself!

We continued on until we got to Hue. It was an amazing experience, despite the cold weather, and would you believe, I still managed to get sunburnt!

Spending all my money in Hoi An

The bus to Hoi An was not as comfortable as the previous one, but it could have been worse. Behind me and Kate at the back of the bus were five beds/seats, right beside each other, with three backpackers on them. We got chatting to them and laughing how it was a good thing they knew each other cause it was pretty intimate. Then at the last stop the bus filled up and the two remaining seats along side them were filled by a fat, smelly, snoring German couple. Eek!

Turned out we were all staying in the same place, in the Sunflower Hotel. Even though it was only a two star hotel, it was still amazing, we had buffet breakfast and swimming pool. And it was cheap as hell.

Everyone I'd met who'd been to Hoi An had loved it and it wasn't hard to see why. Trees lined the streets, there was less traffic, which meant less beeping. It was a perfect place to rent bicycles and cycled through the town, by the river, surrounding countryside and to the beach. The weather was pleasantly warm at 27 degrees. The place is also famous for its tailors, which really were everywhere. Every second shop was a tailors, offering to make whatever you desired. Luckily I'd already been recommended a good tailor in town, thanks to the Irish couple in Nha Thrang. I had come prepared with photographs from a trip to Venice, where I was taunted with beautiful designer wear I could not afford. I got my dream winter jacket and silk dress made overnight. Amazing.

Besides shopping, the next best thing to do in Hoi An was eat. It seemed impossible to get a bad meal here. Everything was amazing, even the street food. The local specialty was Cau Lao Another delicious noodle soup rivaling Pho Bo of the south.
On our second night we found the most amazing restaurant conveniently located right beside our hotel. The food was simply amazing. Me and Karola (the Austrian from the bus) decided to do the cooking class here. Almost every restaurant in Hoi An offered them, but this place was far to perfect to resist.

The next day our class started with a trip to the local market where are lovely teacher walked us through pointing out exotic fruit and veg most of which I'd never seen before, and informing us what they were and how to go about eating them. In the markets the meat is displayed in the open air which seemed terribly unhygienic to my western eyes. Our teacher explained that to customers in Vietnam it is seen as a sign of freshness, and at the end of everyday the meat left over is thrown away. Before cooking, the meat is always soaked in salt water. I suppose this process must be efficient as I am yet to get sick from food in Vietnam.
Getting back to the restaurant, we started cooking. The four meals we made were fresh steamed pork and shrimp spring rolls, chicken lemon grass, Vietnamese beef curry and fish (shark!) hotpot. It was all delicious and pretty fast to prepare it was a morning well spent, and at the end we were given little packs with some if the ingredients we might find hard to find at home.

After three days in Hoi An, I'd done an impressive amount of shopping and eating. I thought it best to get out while I still had some sort of budget to speak of!

Nang Trang-being a tourist

I managed to sleep quite a bit of the 9 hour bus trip from HCMC to Nang Trang, but frequently woke from the sudden hard braking and fear every time we turned a corner at super speeds, convinced the bus was going to tip over.

I got to my hostel, Mojzo Inn at 7.30am and met an absolutely lovely couple from Cork. After about 5 mins of chatting we discovered that the woman was in the same class in secondary, as my boyfriend. When they say the world is small, it's no exaggeration.

While we waited for our rooms to be cleaned we had breakfast on the roof top terrace of the hostel, taking in the beautiful mountain views. Their room was ready before mine and they were kind enough to offer me the use of their shower, which was much appreciated after the night bus.

Nang Thrang is basically a party beach town. It wasn't my intention to stop there at all, but after the business and pollution of HCMC decided it was probably a good idea to get some fresh clean air. It was much bigger than I had expected, and alot more touristic. It could easily pass for a town in Majorca. Alot of Russian Tourists visit, even menus in restaurant have been translated to include Russian. They have free Visas to Vietnam, most likely because they helped them during the War, supplying the Viet Cong with weapons. I was also told Nang Thrang was a popular spot for the Russian Mafia to holiday in. I didn't confirm this with any of the Russians around mind you.

Although I felt that Nang Thrang is nothing too special, there is still plenty to do. In my dorm were three lovely English girls who, on my first day, invited me along to a day in a mud bath spa. Considering it was pouring rain within 3 hours of my arrival, it sounded like a very good option.It was my first time having a mud bath and it was alot of fun. There were also hot springs, waterfalls, and a swimming pool. All the water was warm, so even when it rained, it was nice.
That night I had my first big night out in Vietnam. The majority of the people in bars here are young backpackers. Beer is so cheap here, under a euro, if you're drinking local. Its a damn shame I hate beer. I veered towards cocktails, which are basically laced with liquor, and they give you free shots and drinks in almost every bar. I ended up playing Foosball against some locals, winning every time! While there are lots of pubs in Nang Trang, there were no real clubs, so dancing in the sort of dance floor of the 'Why Not?' Bar would have to suffice. 

The following day was spent slightly hungover, and on the beach. The rain had cleared up and the sunshine that Nang Trang is known for came through at last. While you constantly get hassled here to buy stuff off little old ladies with baskets, they are always quite polite, and not too annoying.

While in Nang Trang I also paid a trip to Vinpearl- Vietnam's version of Disneyland. You have to get, what is the longest over sea's cable car in the world, to get to the island which it was on. Pretty impressive, and its best not to talk about 'what if we fell?' scenarios whilst in it. The island is complete with water park, rides, aquarium, beach, water sports and circus. Child-like fun was had all around, but I also had the worst meal I've had so far, the Vietnamese do not to fast food well, at all. Rice and noodle dishes it is from now on. Aside from this experience, the food here really has been amazing. Pho Bo is my new favourite food, a beef noodle soup, which comes with vegetables and spicy sauces, you add in yourself to your own personal liking. I've been told the food of the North is even better, which is something to be excited about.

On my last day, I decided to check out the islands around Nang Trang and to do some Snorkeling. I got a boat, with some other tourists, which brought us to three different islands to snorkel around. The views on the way were beautiful, and the water beautiful and green. The sun was shining, and we were free to sit on the rooftop of the boat to sunbath as we drifted from place to place. The snorkeling itself was great too, I saw some beautiful fish and coral. It put me in the mood for diving, which I am saving for the Islands of Thailand.
Being Irish, and still being ghostly white compared to everyone else I seem to meet, meant I got burnt alive, despite my best efforts. To be white and pale here, is considered very beautiful to the locals. I've had Vietnamese women have stopped me to tell me how beautiful my skin is. Of course many of them know that its the opposite in Western societies, and that what I want is a tan. You have to be careful buying sunscreen and moisturisers here in case they have whiting agents in them.

That night I got a 12 hour bus trip to Hoi An.. long, and painful!!

Ho Chi Minh

'This might be a stupid question, but how do you cross the road here?!' I overheard a new arrival ask upon checking in. Not a stupid question at all. The first thing that struck me about the city was the traffic and the huge number of motorbikes. All ages, all sizes, all sorts of loads, they're all on one. And the don't stop for anything, red lights, pedestrian crossings, pedestrians themselves... Crossing the road is kind of like playing a game of chicken with on coming traffic. As a friend from home (thank you Zara!) warned me before my travels, you just have to walk straight into it and continue slowly. You have to trust that they will avoid you, and whatever you do, don't stop. A local told me that 40 People a day are killed on the roads in HCMC, I'd well believe it.
Because of all the traffic and heat, it feels quite dirty and my first thoughts were, 'I'm not going to like it here'. After about a half a day of walking around, the place had grown on me. The people are friendly, even when they are doing their best to sell you something or get you to hop on the back of their motorbike.

For those of you, who like me before arriving, here's a quick history lesson on the Vietnam War. Around 1960 the Hanoi government changed it's policy to oppose the Diem regime (ruling from the South). The communist Guerrilla group Viet Cong was founded and began to fight against Diem. Viet Cong began to try and infiltrate the South, and that's when the USA stepped in, the help the south against the communist invaders of the north. The war wages for 19 years ending with the Paris Agreement and a ceasefire. The war did however continue until the fall of Siagon, the capital to communists. It was renamed Ho Chi Minh City after the communist leader.

On my second day I took a trip to the Chi Chu Tunnels. A two hour trip out of the city the countyside littered with Vietnam flags along the way. The Chi Chu people live in the jungles north of Siagon, and during the war, fought as guerilla soldiers against the american soldiers. The Chi Chu Tunnels were built under the jungle, and were the place of many millitary campaigns against the americans by the Viet Cong. The Tunnels stretched for miles and a whole network was in place, but it wasn't a very pleasant place to live and hide for the people. They were just about big enough for these small people to fit in, and the had to hunk down to move, there was certainly no room for standing. They were made small enough so that the bigger american soldiers couldn't fit in.
The tour itself was quite interesting, it starts by us watching an incredible video from the 70's and in my opinion quite the piece of propaganda. It boosts of the cleverness of the Chi Chu people, who outsmarted the americans, who wanted to steal their land. They were clever and managed to kill many americans, despite not having the same equipment or weapons. It tells of the 'American killer Heroes' and those that were awarded medals for the bravery.
After we were shown all the different and admittedly, impressive, traps used to capture the Americans. Terribly brutal, and often quite torturous leaving the soldier with a long and painful death.
Then onto the tunnels. We were given the opportunity to go in ourselves, and even though these tunnels had been slightly widened for tourists, they were still horrifically uncomfortable and stuffy. we had to literally crawl through in spots, and to say it was claustaphobic would be an understatement.

After a morning in the tunnels, I went to the War Museum with a girl from the tour. Set up to the government, it was impressive, but mixing fact with propaganda in parts. A large section contributed to the effects of Agent Orange on the people exposed to it, and a whole gallery of deformaties in children born to people exposed to the Agent. I couldn't bring myself to take any photos it was quite disturbing. Another room dedicated to the opinions of other countries of the war. You were given the impression that every other country was anti american and critical of the War, of the Americans, who according to the Museum, were behind the then ruling 'Puppet Government'.
There was also an exhibition called 'Historical Truths' showing the vicious targeting of American soldiers against innocent people. This, and the Agent Orange section, really made you hate the Americans for the war. It goes on to give their account of how the war ended. Apparently the Americans war budget went bankrupt and the Viet Cong forced them out, forcing them into signing the Paris treaty. It was all very interesting. The phrase 'History is written by the winners' sprang to mind.

The next day I took a day tour to the Mekong river, but to be honest it was far too tourist for me, so didn't really enjoy it. I did however meet some interesting and lovely people. The funniest being 4 Korean men who barely had a word of english, but played me 'Gangnam Style' to my amusement.

That night I hoped on a nine hour night sleeping bus to Nang Thrang!

South East Asia begins...

It started with an Emirates flight from Dublin to Dubai. Traveling alone has its plus' but also its cons. My first travel neighbour was a intimidating looking 50+ Belfast man, covered in tattoos and reeking of booze. It would be a long 7 and a half flight I thought. Once we got chatting he was actually an alright guy, if not a little difficult to understand. He soon fell asleep though and I was free to watch movies.
 My 9 hour stop over was nothing compared to Belfast Man, who had 24 hours to wait until his flight to Sydney. We went our seperate ways to get lost in what is an impressively large airport. After walking the whole length of Duty Free, I still had 8 hours to kill. So after a well needed salad, I found a wifi signal which took up an impressive 3 hours. The rest I spent trying to sleep on a plastic chair. It was 4am there, but to my body it was only midnight. Unbelievably it was the cold, from the overly air conditioned airport, that kept me awake. Then at 5.45am the call to prayer was played over the intercom, jolting me from a sort of slumber.

Finally flight number two, Dubai to Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam. It looked like I would be sitting alone, until about 40 minutes into the flight an air host came over and asked me would it be ok if a lady came to sit beside me as she was having trouble with some drunk men in the sits beside her. I said of course. We landed later than schedule at 7.30pm. I mostly slept for the flight but we got chatting after. She was traveling alone also but doing a tour starting from HCMC. She said she had thought about doing it all alone but chickened out and said I was very brave. Brave or Stupid? hmm. She was Polish, but living in Dublin. We decided to share a taxi from the airport. She'd also met a bubbly Thai woman in Dubai airport who was on our flight. She told me she had been stopped in Dubai airport and strip searched and they accused her of being an illegal immigrant. Poor thing, I thought. The three of us stuck together going through emmigrations and then our bags were scanned again on the other side. Thai Woman got pulled aside and asscorted with three guards, along with her bag. After about 10 minutes of waiting and soul searching we decided to go on without her, not knowing just how long she would be, or even if we really trusted that it was just very bad luck that she would get stopped twice in her trip.

Both having heard lots of stories of taxi drivers ripping customers off, especially from the airport into town, we tried our best to get a reliable taxi, with a meter. We got one with a meter, but we still got ripped off. Something I actually didn't realise until the day after, mostly owing to the Vietnamese Dong being the most confusing currency I have ever encountered.

I arrived safely to what I thought would be my hostel. But I was told they were going to put me in their sister hostel, that it was brand new and lovely. I said that was fine. What I didn't realise was that I was expected to hop on the back of a motor bike to get there. And so, within 10 minutes of being in HCMC I broke my 'No Motorbike' rule. The traffic in this city is like nothing I've ever seen. There are few traffic lights, or rules seemingly. Its like a constant game of chicken, whether you're the motorbike or a poor pedestrian battleing several lanes of cars and motor bikes with no decent crossing.

I got there in one piece, in what seems to be a work-in-progress Hotel, which is currently operating as a Hostel. It is nice, clean and new. I crashed at 11pm exhausted with jet lag but excited!