Ho Chi Minh

'This might be a stupid question, but how do you cross the road here?!' I overheard a new arrival ask upon checking in. Not a stupid question at all. The first thing that struck me about the city was the traffic and the huge number of motorbikes. All ages, all sizes, all sorts of loads, they're all on one. And the don't stop for anything, red lights, pedestrian crossings, pedestrians themselves... Crossing the road is kind of like playing a game of chicken with on coming traffic. As a friend from home (thank you Zara!) warned me before my travels, you just have to walk straight into it and continue slowly. You have to trust that they will avoid you, and whatever you do, don't stop. A local told me that 40 People a day are killed on the roads in HCMC, I'd well believe it.
Because of all the traffic and heat, it feels quite dirty and my first thoughts were, 'I'm not going to like it here'. After about a half a day of walking around, the place had grown on me. The people are friendly, even when they are doing their best to sell you something or get you to hop on the back of their motorbike.

For those of you, who like me before arriving, here's a quick history lesson on the Vietnam War. Around 1960 the Hanoi government changed it's policy to oppose the Diem regime (ruling from the South). The communist Guerrilla group Viet Cong was founded and began to fight against Diem. Viet Cong began to try and infiltrate the South, and that's when the USA stepped in, the help the south against the communist invaders of the north. The war wages for 19 years ending with the Paris Agreement and a ceasefire. The war did however continue until the fall of Siagon, the capital to communists. It was renamed Ho Chi Minh City after the communist leader.

On my second day I took a trip to the Chi Chu Tunnels. A two hour trip out of the city the countyside littered with Vietnam flags along the way. The Chi Chu people live in the jungles north of Siagon, and during the war, fought as guerilla soldiers against the american soldiers. The Chi Chu Tunnels were built under the jungle, and were the place of many millitary campaigns against the americans by the Viet Cong. The Tunnels stretched for miles and a whole network was in place, but it wasn't a very pleasant place to live and hide for the people. They were just about big enough for these small people to fit in, and the had to hunk down to move, there was certainly no room for standing. They were made small enough so that the bigger american soldiers couldn't fit in.
The tour itself was quite interesting, it starts by us watching an incredible video from the 70's and in my opinion quite the piece of propaganda. It boosts of the cleverness of the Chi Chu people, who outsmarted the americans, who wanted to steal their land. They were clever and managed to kill many americans, despite not having the same equipment or weapons. It tells of the 'American killer Heroes' and those that were awarded medals for the bravery.
After we were shown all the different and admittedly, impressive, traps used to capture the Americans. Terribly brutal, and often quite torturous leaving the soldier with a long and painful death.
Then onto the tunnels. We were given the opportunity to go in ourselves, and even though these tunnels had been slightly widened for tourists, they were still horrifically uncomfortable and stuffy. we had to literally crawl through in spots, and to say it was claustaphobic would be an understatement.

After a morning in the tunnels, I went to the War Museum with a girl from the tour. Set up to the government, it was impressive, but mixing fact with propaganda in parts. A large section contributed to the effects of Agent Orange on the people exposed to it, and a whole gallery of deformaties in children born to people exposed to the Agent. I couldn't bring myself to take any photos it was quite disturbing. Another room dedicated to the opinions of other countries of the war. You were given the impression that every other country was anti american and critical of the War, of the Americans, who according to the Museum, were behind the then ruling 'Puppet Government'.
There was also an exhibition called 'Historical Truths' showing the vicious targeting of American soldiers against innocent people. This, and the Agent Orange section, really made you hate the Americans for the war. It goes on to give their account of how the war ended. Apparently the Americans war budget went bankrupt and the Viet Cong forced them out, forcing them into signing the Paris treaty. It was all very interesting. The phrase 'History is written by the winners' sprang to mind.

The next day I took a day tour to the Mekong river, but to be honest it was far too tourist for me, so didn't really enjoy it. I did however meet some interesting and lovely people. The funniest being 4 Korean men who barely had a word of english, but played me 'Gangnam Style' to my amusement.

That night I hoped on a nine hour night sleeping bus to Nang Thrang!